24-06-06
WATER CHARGING DEVICE
As told by Joe on
a visit to an Adelaide (Australian) group in 1998.
This consists of seven, 290mm diameter, 316 stainless steel dairy cream
separator cones,
available
from Bruce
Keyes William Rd. Goosbury Hill W.A.
(09-257-1481).
These sit inside a beer keg which has had the top removed. The top must be
cut off by hand, no heat involved. Also
run a neodybnium magnet over the keg, particularly on the joins and pick one
with the least amount of
magnetic attraction. The keg is stood on a wooden base to insulate it from the floor
- don't stand it directly on concrete.
As shown in the diagram, the cones are threaded onto a length of 50mm
black corrugated plastic (as used
in agricultural drains) The cones are held apart by rubber hose, cut into 20mm lengths. Joe uses the
hose which is used in traffic counters across roads. He stated that he only uses the
"thick" type, not the thin one.
As this is in NSW, we are not sure that we have the correct stuff here.
The rubbers (three rubbers per row) are placed at even spacing so that they line up with each
other. We used 6mm poly pipe at each end to hold the whole assembly together. The
assembled unit is strung with a short length of 316 stainless strapping from a
25mm piece of 316 stainless pipe (we used the center pipe from the keg), which
is insulated from
the keg by two pieces of wood.
The electrical connections are very critical in that they
mast be connected exactly as shown in the diagram. Alternative ways of
connecting them will work according to conventional electrical theory, but it
will not work the way this unit is designed. Where the supply connections are under the water, insulate them with
clear plastic tube. Use 316 stainless pop rivets as shown
(hammer the back of them flat) and bend the 316 stainless strapping exactly as shown in the drawing.
Joe said that the position of the positive and negative in relation to each other is not
critical, however the positive must be looped over the edge of the keg and the supply clipped over this loop. We have
been using a 54-volt power supply, capable of delivering
20 Amps.
Joe seems to use anything from 12 volts up to 54 volts.
Plain water is used, no additives at all, and depending on
what is in the water to begin with, the current seems to be anywhere
from 0.5 amps for de-ionized water up to 12 amps for some tank water that I have used.
Effects
that indicate that the water is being charged are:
·
Keg becomes magnetic
·
Water produces bubbles that stick together (high surface
tension) and are implosive when lit,
rather than the
yellow flamed hydrogen.
·
Clump of bubbles "grow" out towards the edge of
the keg in an anti-clockwise direction.
·
Water
rotates in an anti-clockwise direction.
· Bubbles coat the cones and stay after the
unit is switched off
· Bubbles continue to slowly come off after
unit is switched off
·
Loads of brown scum comes to the surface of the
water. Scoop this off into a glass jar and the next
day it settles to the bottom of the jar. If water is placed in a bucket next to
a keg of charged water, a similar brown scum will settle out straight to the
bottom of the bucket
If the unit does not produce the correct bubbles
(implosive, very loud, no flame) but instead produces straight
hydrogen (explosive, duller bang, yellow flame), try switching the unit off and back on or
reversing either one or both of the supply clip leads (physically turning them around, but on the same connection) Also try reversing the
polarity of the supply for a short time, but always return it to the correct way around, otherwise you may
end up with an electroplater. Any of
these methods, although very unorthodox, can cause the unit to begin producing
the correct gas.
Finally, it is important to note
that Joe claims that if any variation on this design is used, the unit will not
work. Do not rely on conventional theory to make "improvements" as
this is not normal stuff! If the water begins to heat up, the
unit is not working properly. We have not got the unit
to produce fully "charged water" although we have experienced some of
the above effects. Doubtful parts of our unit is the type of rubber insulators and
the center tube set-up.
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Additional Barry Hilton
notes. (1/1/98)
Barry considers that this device works on Zero Point
Energy and that Joe's device is tapping the basic energy fields, which flow at 90
deg. to the earth.
Tubes.
Reflex
band must be less than 4 - 5 mm in width
Tube
must not be magnetic as measured with a ceramic magnet.
Grades of stainless he thinks Joe has used are 316, 3I6L, 1808 or any
other which is "food
processing equipment grade".
Water Treatment:
The brown gunge, which comes off the cones, is Ferric
Oxide, according to Barry, the iron is off the cones and the
oxygen from the electrolysis of the water. Once the gas is implosive, the water is charged. This MUST occur within the first few
minutes (up to 10 mins?) or it will not be any good. Throw the water out and
repeat with fresh water until the above conditions are met. Barry has
found that the more this is done, the quicker the correct gas will occur for any
given cell
Cones:
Gaps
closer than 15mm will cause electroplating.
If
the voltage is kept to 12 volts, no nickel will occur in the water.
Adjust the height of
the cones off the bottom of the keg to get the right gas.
The more the cell is used, i.e. add water, charge up,
throw out the water, etc the quicker the gas comes off Do this 20 - 30 times and the
gas will come off straight away, even on 12 volts.
Barry's theory is
that the cones become impregnated with hydrogen.
**********************************
Additional Ian Hacon notes.
11/1/98
Blue fire extinguisher (Chubb) is
the one to use, as these are not magnetic. Ian is using 2, 3, 4, 5 inch tubes inside. The 2 inch tube has a plate pressed inside it with a
threaded hole in the middle so that a bolt can be fitted for the -ve
connection. The tubes are to be highly polished using Butinol and Phosphoric
acid to etch them.
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GAS GENERATOR FOR
VEHICLES
The unit consists of four concentric 316 stainless steel tubes set up
as shown in the drawing. When
selecting the tubing, use a neodybnium magnet to test the welded seam in the
tube for any attraction to the
magnet. If there is any attraction, do not use that particular tube. The center tube is 25mm in diameter and has a 316 stainless
steel bolt rammed into the end of it. This tube must be slightly shorter than
the next two so that it cannot directly "see" the outside tube. The center tube fits into a Teflon Insulator, which
then fits into the 316 stainless end plate. (Note: The Teflon insulator is totally covered with
Sikaflex) The outside 100mm diameter tube also becomes the outside of the
unit. This tube is longer and fits into a groove machined into each end plate.
The other two intermediate tubes, 50mm and 75mm diameters are held in position by rubber insulating pieces, similar to the ones
that hold the cones apart in the water-charging device. This time however, they must be in line with
each other, spread at 120 degrees
around the tubes. The whole assembly is held together by four threaded
aluminium rods with 316
stainless nuts on each end. The gas exits the unit via the 12mm aluminium tube
which is threaded into the top end plate. This tube goes right up to the engine
manifold where the +12 volts is
connected to it. A short length of
rubber hose insulates this
tube from the manifold.
Materials:
· Don't
use anything except 316 stainless (or aluminium where specified)
· Use
Sikaflex (white marine grade) on external joints to seal the unit.
· Do not use cut-off wheels etc. to cut tubes - hand cut
everything using a new hacksaw blade so that it is
not contaminated with other material.
·
Negative power
connection must be at the bottom and positive at the tube into the engine.
· Don't use copper, Perspex, silastic or rubber. (apart
from tube insulators as specified)
We
are not sure if the aluminium rods are acceptable (maybe they need to be
316 also) but assume that they
are OK as they are not magnetic and are outside of the
field of the unit.
Do not mount the unit or pass the aluminium delivery tube
near any high current electrical wiring. e.g. starter
motor, alternator. Also after the unit has been two thirds filled with "charged water", do not short the
positive and negative terminals as this will discharge the water and you will
have to wash out the unit and start again. If the
water is not "charged" correctly,
the unit may discharge at 2 AM. This can be overcome by keeping a 1.5 volt
battery connected to it overnight.
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